Final Thoughts

I have been home from my trip to Korea for several days now and am finally over the jet lag. Korea is 13 hours ahead of us. The flight home was 14 hours; thankfully I arrived just before the terrorist plot erupted. It is good to be back in the United States.

In reflecting on my trip I am very grateful to the Korean Foundation who made this all possible. They truly opened their home to us and made us feel welcome. Everything we did was top notch, from the meals, to the lectures, to the many excursions we took. They made sure that we felt special. It is not often that teachers are held in such esteem.

The people of Korea were very open and receptive. Many students spoke English but overall the population did not. Young children loved to come up to us and begin a conversation to practice their language skills. Soon crowds of children would gather to have their pictures taken with us. Many older people respectfully declined having their pictures taken.

The history of Korea is rich with kings and ancient dynasties. We cannot fully appreciate the years of struggles some countries have endured. Even today there are unfinished pages in the history books as a divided country fights for its future. There is a sense of looking over the shoulder at the suppression from Japan. Looking ahead there is the enormous task of reuniting a torn nation.

Even if reunification is possible it will be a tremendous financial burden on the South Koreans. In only 50 years they have become one of the top economic powers in the world. It is hard to imagine the life of the Koreans struggling from the ravages of their most recent war yet, they have built a nation that gives us new technology every day and can boast of the famous “Korean Wave”, entertainment phenomenon.

I will miss the warm smiles of Korea and the wonderful friendships that have formed. It is my hope to share the story with others. I am looking forward to telling my students about life that is very different from ours. As always I find that there are so many things we do have in common that unite us as human beings. I want to instill in young Americans how fortunate we are for the freedoms that we have.

Education is a precious tool that gives every person the ability to make a difference in the world. I am grateful to be able to teach others about Korea and its impact on the world.

Thank you Korea, I hope to visit again.
Anyong-hi kaseyo - Good-bye.

Barbara Delaney

Trip to the DMZ

One of the most memorable trips that we took during our stay in Korea was to the DMZ, the line dividing North and South Korea.

Even before you leave Seoul there is evidence of the tension between the two sides. On the highway, we passed under a huge cement block perched precariously on thin legs. If there was an attack on the city the legs would be knocked out and the block would fall onto the roadway to prevent an infultration.

As we followed the "Freedom Highway" which hugs the Han River there are obvious reminders of the unsettled issues between the two very different Koreas. Barbed wire, army compounds and increased guards line the road on our way to Panmunjom, one and one half hours from Seoul. It is a sobering reminder of the price we pay to live in relative peace.

We arrived in Panmunjom and were greeted by a ritired U.S. army officer who was to be our guide. We were restricted when taking photographs and are given orders to listen to instuctions and watch everything we do as we are in a potentially hostile environment. Our passports were inspected and we proceded to the next point.

We are taken to several areas in the DMZ. We are now escorted by an American soldier who is on official duty. He continually reminds us not to point, make sudden movements or turn around quickly. Cameras watch us from every angle. Apparently the North Koreans love to put pictures of Americans "waving", on the front page of their newspapers.

At one point we are standing in a room in the Joint Security Area. Both sides have access to this room which is used for negotiations. There are footprints on the table. We are told that when we leave the North Koreans come in and walk on the table and blow their nose in the American flag (which is now a piece of plastic hanging on the wall). Outside we are facing the North Korean's guard house, soldiers face us and watch our every move.

At a lookout point we can see over the DMZ. This 4 kilometer wide stripe is lush with rare birds and plants. It is a haven for endangered wildlife. It is eerily protected by land mines scattered throughout.

On "the other side", there is a city that faces south. It is appropriately deemed Propaganda City as it is merely a shell of buildings. Only caretakers inhabit the site. There is a tower in the center that screams propaganda to anyone within earshot for about 6 hours a day, usually at night. One of the largest flags in the world hangs from the tower. Using telescopes you can see a real city. If you hone in you can see a statue of Kim Il Sung, a constant reminder of their a leader who supresses their daily existance. Do they know of their condition? Are they happy? Questions that continue to go unanswered.

We are taken to tunnel #3, one of several discovered by the South Koreans. It leads us down, down, down. It is carved from the hard rock, it's purpose was to quickly transport troops for the pupose of invasion. There are believed to be many undiscovered such tunnels.

It is a strange place to be in, we are in one of the most contoversial places in the world yet here, in this remote outpost, there is a certain feeling of being at yet another tourist attraction complete with a movie (filled with propaganda), a visitors center and of course the gift shop. A good place to stock up on DMZ wear.

As we ride back on the much guarded highway you can't help but wonder what it must be like for the people of North Korea. It is known that they are living in a negative economy. Food and comodities are scarce. Many risk their lives to leave, mainly through China. Starting life over in the South is difficult. It is hard to imagine how truely blessed we are for the freedoms and the lifestyle that we take for granted every day of our lives.

God Bless America,
Love,
Barbara

Scenes Gyeongju

On the Road to Gyeogju

We are sitting on a bus on our way to a city in the Southeast of Korea called Gyeonfgju. We began our morning with a tour of the Samsung Electronic Exhibition Hall. Samsung means 3 stars. The exhibit was state of the art. We were able to get a glimpse of the latest gadgets that do everything from getting the ball game on your cell phone to making kim chi (a traditional Korean dish of pickled foods). Look for a 10 mega pixel camera on your cell phone in the near future.
Once we were outside of Seoul the rolling hill turned into mountainous countryside. Many tunnels take us under the tall peaks. It is the peak of summer and the region is lush with rice and vegetable crops. The fruit growing along the way are wrapped in paper. This prevents the fruit from becoming too big and losing its flavor. We arrived in Bheonganseowon where we had a delicious lunch. As always the veggie group had our own table. The others ate barbeque cooked on their own grills. We had a variety of foods. Meals are always served in many little dishes set in the middle of the table. Everyone uses their chopsticks to taste a little of everything. It’s a little scary when the food stares back at you.
We are now in a southern region of the country. The pictures displayed are of temples and historic sights. It is beautiful part of the country and very hot. The days are filled from morning to evening and the heat makes it quite exhausting. It is not as easy to get to the Internet at our new hotel so I will not be able to blog every day.
I often stop and ask the kids if I may take their picture. They love to engage in conversation and we have also been asked to be in many of their pictures. After a picture I say, give me a high five. A little boy was standing next to his brother. I was asking for a high five, his brother said He not five, he six.
Luv U BAD
P.S. We have now been here for 3 days, it is a beautiful place. Our schedule is very full and we are very tired. Tomorrow we head back to Seoul.



.

My Special Friend

Today was another great day. After a morning of lectures we went to the Korea War Memorial. This was a very moving memorial museum, we spent about 3 hours there.
An option for the evening was a shopping excursion to Itaewan. This is an area known for tourist shops but it specializes in hand tailored suits. The men greeted us at the bus, "you want me make you suit, very good price". One teacher in our group is having one made for $220 dollars and they are giving him 2 ties AND a free hankerchief. You can't beat it at Walmart!
It was a great evening of shopping and bargaining. We met some endearing people who wanted to make sure we bought from them! I don't know if we really got a great deal but it was fun to banter with the merchants and make some new friends. Dinner was a Starbucks Drink (big mistake as it is 1:30 a.m. and I am wired!)
We headed for the subway. Along the way we stopped in a tourist information center and got posters for our classrooms. I figured out where we were going and we hopped on the train. After awhile my companion asked if we were going the right way. We were distracted taking pictures of a cute little girl. We decided it was better to get off the train and decide before we went too far. We consulted the map and decided that we were going the wrong way and got back on the train.
A young man (picture) got on with us. I knew right away he was autistic, I took a seat next to him. Being autistic, he immediately bounced up and was pacing the floor. He took out a piece of paper and every time the train came to a stop he checked his paper and then looked out the door. He came back and sat next to me. He showed me his pen (which he kept clicking). I pointed to my camera. He wasn't shy and was very curious about the camera. He wanted to press all the buttons. As you can see, he's my new friend.
After many stops we decided to consult the map again. We determined that we had been correct and had been only one stop from home before we got off the train. A half hour later we were back to our stop. Another short trip that took three times as long as it should have. For me, it was worth it.
Our "early" evening brought us back to the hotel at 10:00. We were hungry and the hotel 7-eleven wasn't appealing and the Dunkin Donuts wasn't making crossoint sandwiches so we decided to go to the Outback and get appetizers. "So sorry we are closing". They felt sorry for us and handed us each a bag. Inside was a small loaf of bread and butter. We joined the "over 40" crowd that have been meeting every night on the rooftop where the view of the city is spectacular. (The young kids go out to the clubs and the casinos). We enjoyed our "dinner" and the company.
Tomorrow we have a long travel day. We are going to Samsung Electronics, to Hahoe Folk Village, and then on to our weekend destination to Gyeongju. We won't arrive until late tomorrow night.
I have to pack now, we have to check out early in the morning. After drinking my Starbucks Grande I will probally still be awake. Grande mistake!
Love to all,
Barbara

Studying at Yonsei University

This week we are attending a series of ten lectures at Yonsei University in Seoul. There are excellent speakers on a variety of topics including Education, Economic Development, The Korean Wave, Political Democratization, Art and East Asian Security. After our classes we go on field trips around Seoul.

We have visited the National Museum of Korea which is located in beautiful facility. There were many interesting artifacts and art objects. The Korean Folk Art museum was a collection of things that portray the Korean way of life. This was located on the grounds of Gyeongbok Palace.

SHOPPING
There are several shopping districts in Seoul, each with its own unique characteristics. Insadong is an area that has many traditional Korean crafts and folk art for sale. Mingled in between are intriguing little restaurants and coffee shops. Vendors have carts and sell unusual food. You can find dried octopus legs, fish and lots of kim chi a type of pickled food which is very spicy. The smells are pleasant and the atmosphere is lively.

Down the street from our hotel is another area called Namdaemen Market. Here is where many Koreans shop for food and wares. There are open air booths and it is a place where you feel like you are shopping in a neighborhood market. No matter where you go it is easy to find lots of interesting things to buy.

THE BATH HOUSE
Yesterday night we went to a bath house. This was a very interesting experience. Young people, elderly people and families pay 10,000 won ($10) each for entry. You are given a tee-shirt and baggy shorts to change into. There are 8 (heated) floors of places to relax, exercise, bathe, read, watch TV. and even sleep! There was a room that had about 50 short bunk beds where you could take a nap or sleep for the night. There are rooms to relax in including sauna rooms, oxygen rooms, charcoals rooms, rooms with small heated stones and rooms with chambers that you could lay in and soak up the heat. The baths are separated for men and women. You sit on a short stool and shower off. Then you have a choice of hot, hotter and hottest baths. Some baths have salt, some have pounding waterfalls and some have water jets. They are all wonderful! While you are there you can get a massage, a body scrub, a manicure, a foot massage or an herbal treatment. When you are all clean and relaxed you can go and sit on the floor at a low table to eat. The fare was a sweet rice drink and a smoked egg. After this we were scrubbed, fed and ready for bed!

Until tomorrow,
Barbara